Day 108 - Sydney

Whew, haven't written in a while, been busybusy.

On Tuesday I went to visit Mike and Ayako, uncle Mike's brother-in-law and his wife. They were very nice and fed me sushi - yum. It's always fun to meet new people - Gran said she would give me the address of one of her old friends, who lives in NZ, so I can visit him and his family while I'm there.

My last day in Perth I went to Fremantle, a town near the sea (really a kind of suburb of Perth) and explored, sat next to the harbour, drank lots of coffee etc. Then I hung around the hostel in the evening with some of the people I had met, watched some naff movies and tried to use up my food (omlette-on-toast, niice). At about 11 I got a lift to the airport then caught my Virgin Blue flight to Sydney. It was a bloomin' 4 1/2 hour flight, which got me in about 7.30 (time difference)... so another night of no sleep!

Yesterday I mainly slept and wondered around Redfern, the area that my hostel is in. Not very exciting. Today I got the train to Central Quay to get a look at the Sydney opera house. Must say it was a bit dissapointing - smaller than I imagined. I had more fun watching the entertainers lined up along the harbour. One guy was inexplicably dressed up as a donkey, and just stood there doing nothing. He didn't move except to fidget in the half hour I sat there eating my lunch, so I couldn't work out what he was meant to be doing - maybe just a crazy person. I also explored the rocks area - which is across the cove from the opera house and the location of Sydney's first European settlement. Once a home of prostitutes, convicts, whalers and street gangs, now it's a very clean, historical area with cobbled streets, old colonial buildings and lots of naff shops and cafes. So, ooh-ing and aah-ing over with, now I'm going to go to Darlington Harbour and Chinatown and have a look around there...

Day 104 - Perth

Perth... after a good deal of walking around the city on sunday, I realised what it reminded me of... Milton Keynes!! The simularity is remarkable (bar the temperature). It really feels like I'm back in the UK, albiet with a freak heat wave and lots of people sounding like crocodile dundee/the cast of neighbours (it's even about the same size!).

Yesterday I visited the perfect white sands of Cottesloe beach and got my back perfectly burned (you can even see the bow where I tied my bikini), had some disasterous experiments in the kitchen (I haven't cooked for a while, ok?) and then got on a bus with a bunch of people from the hostel and dropped off at a bar with free beer all night.
So... feeling a little tender today.

Today or tomorrow I am hopefully going to visit my uncle's brother-in-law & family which will be nice. And then I fly on to Sydney on Wednesday night!

Day 102 - Perth

Perth, bright sunshine, 30°C out (no humidity, thank heaven). It's all good.

On the last day in Ho Chi Minh I had a bit of a whizz round the city on the back of several motorcycles. I also spent time organising and booking stuff on t'internet. Think I pretty much did Ho Chi Minh to death. Favourite parts? The free cinema on top of Bobby Brewers cafe, The Rex hotel swimming pool and the Cu Chi tunnels were pretty cool (just so that I don't come across as totally idle).

And yesterday? Yesterday I spent aaall the day (and night) travelling - yaaawn. Left Viet Nam at 8.30am yest, arrived here last night about 1am after several flights and tedious hours hanging around at Singapore airport. After my flight arrived I stretched out on some of the chairs in the Departures hall, piled my stuff around me and fell asleep. Not the most comfortable nights sleep ever - but I saved 1 nights accom and a taxi fare so feel very virtuous. The next morning I caught an early shuttle bus to my hostel and crawled into bed and slept.

So, that was my last few days - all thrilling stuff. I'm going to go get the orientation talk from the guys in reception, then go ride the free cat buses around the city... should be fuuun.

Day 99 - Ho Chi Minh

Wow - tomorrow I will have been travelling for 100 days (calls for a celebration!).

Didn't go to the Mekong today - I got chatting with a guy in my dorm who's been on the trip, and apparantly it is a waste of money. So, change of plan - instead I went and bought a bikini (XL - the sizes were obviously tailored for pocket-sized Vietnamese girls) . Then I went to the Rex pool and swam for a bit, then to the upstairs cinema at the coffee shop near the hotel. I paid for an expensive cup of tea, and made it last through two films: The Black Dahlia and Click. The cinema is great - yesterday I watched James Bond and The Wicker Man. It's nice to catch up on my movies!

Tomorrow is my last day. I plan to do not-a-lot and generally enjoy the last day of eating out in a veeeery looong time.

Day 98 - Ho Chi Minh

Well, didn't make it to the Mekong today (I completely overslept) - will have to go tomorrow. Instead I got a ride to the main post office to post my parcel. It cost £9 to send by airmail, and I really hope it gets to the UK before xmas - or at all!

The ride back to the hotel from the post office was somewhat of an epic adventure. On the journey to there I had spotted a street full of swimming wear shops and decided to try and get a ride there in order to get a new bikini. I explained the street, and that it was nearby, to one of the wrinkled old men perched on his motorbike. This elicited a big smile, lots of nods, and 2 fingers. OK, I think he knows what I mean - 2000? thats ok. I nod, hop on his bike and we whizz off (quite literally - this is the most crazy driver to date. Red light? Just a suggestion). 15 minutes later we are still going when we should have passed it waaay back. I decide to give up on swimwear and get him to take me straight to the hotel.
"Bui Vien"
He grins and nods, pointing staight ahead. OK, didn't think it was this far, but he seems to know best. Another 10 minutes pass and we are now leaving the city. Maybe not.
"STOOOOOOP"
Man does a (suicidal) hairpin u-turn and stops at the side of the road.
"Where are we?"
He grins and nods.
"Do you understand me?"
He grins and nods.
"You really don't understand a word I'm saying, do you?"
He grins and nods.
I march over to the hotel we have pulled up in front of. One of the guys speaks English and he gets me to write the address of where I want to go. I write the address of my hostel. He goes over and talks to the wrinkled old guy. Wrinkled old guy opens his eyes wide and chatters away in Vietnamese. Then points back the way we came and holds up 5 fingers. I look at the hotel guy for translation. Turns out the guy had no idea where I wanted to go, and just drove in a straight line out of the city (in the wrong direction), waiting for me to tell him to stop.
"He says that we are far far away from Ho Chi Minh, it will cost you 50,000 to get back there"
"FIFTY THOUSAND!!!"
Ten minutes of arguing ensue, and much scribbling on pieces of paper. 5 other people get involved in the debate and we finally all agree to a figure of 30,000 for the ride back to the hotel.
Back on the bike. An even more white-knuckle ride than before, and we are back in Bui Vien street. I hand the old boy the fare. He smiles and points to the sign, I laugh and pat him on the back. Moral of the story? Don't be vague, and don't presume you've been understood. Oh dear.

Day 97 - Ho Chi Minh

Mid-way through my week in Ho Chi Minh. I'm liking it a lot actually - though it's not quite how I imagined. Lots of shops selling great fake stuff from amazing reproductions of works of art, through to DVDs and Gucci sunglasses. The streets are packed with motorcycles - apparently there are about 5 million of the things in Ho Chi Minh alone. Girls ride them in their coolie hats, knee-length gloves and face masks. Wrinkled old guys slouch around on street corners offering taxi-bike services (great way to get around - so much fuuun). Bu Vien, the street that I'm staying in, is backpacker central. A constant stream of scruffy, tanned travellers weighed down by enormous bags are entering and leaving all the bargain hostels and hotels. In the day time we all hang around in the numerous restaurants, and at night the numerous bars. Beer is cheap, food is good and everyone is friendly and generally chilled out.

There is also lots of interesting stuff to do. The day before yesterday, after writing my blog entry, I caught a taxi-bike to the war museum for a bit of history. It was interesting, but depressing; lots of tanks and planes, a room about all the war photographers and another about the gruesome after-effects of Agent Orange.

Yesterday I went with a group of people to the Cu Chin tunnels. 40 miles from the city, the tunnels in question are a warren of secrets passageways built underground by the Cu Chin guerillas during the war. We got to crawl through one - it was claustrophobic, and the original entrances are ridiculously tiny. If yesterday made me feel sorry for the Vietnamese, the spiked traps the guerillas left for the American soldiers made me feel slightly sorry for the other side too.

Today I took a bike to the Rex hotel and chilled by the pool on their roof. It was nice to spend the day alternatively dipping and roasting. I also finished souvenir shopping. I'm planning to go to the Mekong tomorrow, but will hopefully post the stuff the day after. Who knows, maybe it'll get to the UK before xmas?

Day 95 - Ho Chi Minh

Chào ban from Ho chi Minh (Saigon), Viet Nam. My second day here now (the first day didn't count - I slept for most of it)

I arrived here yesterday morning feeling awful. I had heard that the singapore terminal was heaven; swimming pool, restrooms, cinema etc., so had decided to save money on the taxi and room and sleep in the terminal. Bad idea. What I didn't realise that there is a whole seperate terminal (budget terminal) for Tiger Airways, the budget airline I had booked a flight with, and it didn't have 24 hr check-in. I tried to sleep in the basic, brightly lit entrance room, but the upright seats were uncomfortable, and the guy on the cleaning machine chugged by every 15 minutes. The flight was a quick one, 1 1/2 hours, and we touched down in Ho Chi Minh at about 8am their time. It was baking hot, and after Singapore very grubby. The first thing I did was go to the cash machine and become an instant millionaire - dong (yes, I know) is the official currency of Viet Nam, and there is approximately 30,000 dong to every British pound. Next I got on the bus into the city, which conveniently stops around the corner from my hostel; Yellow House Hotel.

The hotel is sandwiched between tourist shops, restaurants and other hotels. Free internet, and staff are lovely - they let me use a single room to have a hot shower whilst they prepared my bed in the dorm. Once my bed was ready I crashed out and slept until 6pm, when I briefly went out for pizza, then came back and slept all the way through to 8am this morning. My dorm is really a small room with three beds crammed into it. It's a bit cramped, but cheap and has air-conditioning so I can escape the heat (it's not really that bad, only about 32°, but it is not nice sleeping at this temperature combined with the humidity here).

Today I booked a trip to the Mekong and another to the Cu Chi tunnels. The rest of the time has been spent shopping. It's not like that - it's not for me, it's all souveniers! Actually, I lie, I also brought a new day pack for less than a fiver. After 3 months of lugging round inconvenient shoulder bags, I've finally seen the light. My bag is a posh North Face one with a million little pockets and clips. Why did I not get one sooner?

Day 93 - Singapore

Last day - I fly out to Vietnam tomorrow morning at 6.45 am (nooo).

This morning I dragged myself out of bed early (only 4 hours sleep, nooot good), had a large breakfast and caught the bus to Holland Rd so that I could pick up my visa from the embassy. The sky suddenly got very moody and grey and I realised that I hadn't brought my umbrella - fatal mistake. It didn't rain on the 20 minute walk to the embassy through posh residential estates. It didn't rain when I picked up my visa and left the building. It did start raining after I'd been walking back to the bus stop for 5 minutes. First it drizzled, I hid under a tree waiting for it to stop - then it showered, I started getting dripped on - then it absolutley bucketed it down and in seconds I was soaked to the skin. I looked around desperately for cover, then decided to run back to the embassy; I picked up my flip flops and sprinted back down the road at full pelt. I was back to the embassy in about a minute, and stood in the lobby, panting and creating a huge puddle on the tiled floor whilst a row of amused faces stared at me (the buggers all came in taxi's) . I had to go into the toilets and wring out my clothes, before putting the sodden things back on - sloppy, cold clothes; yuk. Then I had to hang around waiting for the rain to stop, which it finally did after half an hour. Anyway - when the rain stopped I headed back to the main road, and my sodden clothes where the perfect excuse for a shopping trip (not that I need an excuse).

When I got back I took great pleasure in consigning my cheap cotton vests and aladdin pants - the India uniform - to the rubbish bin, and replacing it with another pair of jeans (I'll make them into shorts), combats, vests and fake Abercrombie and Fitch T-shirts. Thank goodness for that!

Day 92 - Singapore

Today I did the tourist thing - checked out the heritage area of Singapore, around the harbour where the founder of the city, Raffles, originally landed. I wondered around for a few hours, taking pictures and chatting away to random old people (they are all so nice here).

Singapore's answer to the Sydney Opera House - yes, it is a huge Durien



View across the bay of the Durien



You ahaven't seen Singapore properly if you haven't seen the Merlion...



THe merlion and me



Clock tower, stormy sky



The guy that started it all, Raffles



The boat jetty



In the evening I went on the 'food walk'- a tour of the local culture and cuisine organised by the hostel owner, Tony. We ate lots (and lots and lots), then drank some (ok, quite a lot), then went to a few bars and generally had lots of fun. I enjoyed trying some random new food (sadly no deepfried bugs though) and learned many interesting things about Singapore - for example you need a prescription to buy chewing gum (?) and the lift in the blocks of flats have 'urine sensors' and if someone pees in the lift, the lift locks down, all the alarms in the building go off, and a bunch of police rush in and arrest the offending party, who gets 200 hrs community service wearing a bright green jacket (just so everyone around knows they are a lift pee-er). Random.

Singapore after sunset



Ice Kacang (thanks uncle)



Mmm, beer



Steve, Lucia, Helen, me and Lee



Me, Lucia and Tony

Day 91 - Singapore

Well, another day of doing not a lot. It was a heavy, hot day, and most of us at the hostel spent the day spread on the sofas alternatively sweating and shivering (rotating fans). For lunch we went to uncle's, for Ice Kacang - a mountain of shaved ice covered in fresh fruits and syrup. Delicious and refreshing and great to counter the weather. Afterward we got to try Durien (see right - yes, it tastes about as appetising as it looks) - Singapore's favourite fruit - with the "consistancy of a cow-pat, the smell of a poorly maintained public convenience". This is no exaggeration. The carrying of durien fruits has actually been banned on public transport due to it's pervasive, unpleasant odour. As you can imagine - it doesn't taste too delicious. That said, it wasn't utterly disgusting either, simular to custard, but with a wierd, funky aftertaste. Uncle, the charming proprieter of the ice bar (one of those wonderful people who obviously enjoys and takes great pride in his work) tells us that the saying is that if you like the flavour, you will be back to Singapore; either for an extended visit or to live here. Lets just say there's no worries of that happening.

Dinner was stir-fry veg from the cafe on the corner (again), and yet another movie from the dvd cabinet. A whole bunch of people from the hostel left today to catch their various flights, which was sad, but I now have a whole bunch of email addresses of people to visit when I go to oz - yay.

Day 90 - Singapore

Mission accomplished - the visa has now been applied for (thank goodness). When I walked past 10 Leedon Road on the way back from the embassy I saw a young FedEx delivery guy standing on the other side of the gate, phone in hand, looking like he was ready to cry. "Are you stuck?" I ask, and he nods, rattles the gate and points to the FedEx van still running. "The gate's locked - can you tell the driver? He's listening to his music and not answering the phone". This is funny - looks like he's been locked in for some while and his collegue is bopping away in the front seat, completely oblivious. I take pity and point out the gate unlock button in the booth. The guy thanks me many times as I hold the gate open for him, and as I leave I see him marching over the van, presumably to shout at his buddy. Amooosing - glad to know I'm not the only daftie around!

I walked back to the bus stop and got a ride to Orchard Rd. When I got there I stood for a while, awed at the sheer scale of the place with it's huge malls. Took some lame photos with my camera... Orchard Rd in all its glory, and the bus (complete with TV to stave off boredom) - when I think back to the Indian local buses I have to laugh.



And the rest of the day? Well, not really much to tell; went back to hostel, made lunch, watched a DVD (Leon), read a magazine. Now I'm going to go to my favourite restaurant and get my dinner (stir fried veg, yum, and a papaya) then maybe watch another DVD. Aaah, this is the life.

Day 89 - Singapore

Well, after a grand total of about 18 hrs sleep over the course of yesterday and last night - I felt pretty good this morning. After breakfast (peanut butter on toast, fruit salad) I sorted out a plan of action for the day. Because I'm going to Vietnam in a week, and you have to apply for the visa in advance, I needed to a)find the address of the embassy, then b)get to the embassy. Easier said than done...

After some investigation on the internet I had an address for the agency, 10 Leedon rd, and discovered that Leedon road was next to Holland Rd, a stop on the no.7 bus that goes by the end of the road the hostel is in. By the time i'd got passport photos taken (if you've got a few hours spare some time I'll tell you the story of what a palarver this was) and visited the ATM (cash, pause, more cash) it was about 11. Ihopped onto the next no.7 bus that stopped by and half an hour later I hopped off at Holland road (bus driver was so helpful) and set off down Leedon Rd, not believing it had been so easy. Well - will never again speak too soon! 10 Leedon Rd was a big block obscured by a security gate - it didn't look much like an embassy, but I checked the address jotted down and it was right. The booth with the sign "All visitors must sign in - all trespassers will be prosecuted" was empty. The main gate was locked, but the side gate was slightly open, so I went in. I wondered past the sign (checking for security cameras in a paranoid manner) and ventured into the main area - no sign of the embassy. I peered up a few stairways before lost the bottle and made my way back to the gate. S*#%, locked, I must have closed it behind me. Look round, shake gate, still locked. Look round, try to climb over gate, crap, skirt preventing upward leg movement. Turn, look at empty booth, couple of switches on wall - one reads "side gate". Look round, reach in and press button, gate buzzes, pick up bag and run at gate (I thought it was timed - ok?), gate slides open too easily and I go careening out onto road. It's fine, quiet road, no-one saw... except that old guy with the rubbish bin, staring my as though i'm an escapee from a loony asylum (with justification, to be honest). Little old man blinks. "Urm, is this the Embassy of Vietnam?" I ask. Old man wrinkles into a smile, revealing single tooth, and points up the road - "Leedon Park, Embassy 10 Leedon Park". Fantastic, just fantasic. Gathering the remaining shreds of my dignity and the items that have flown out of my bag, I carry on up the road. 15 minutes and several wrong turns later I'm at yellow-stone building with Vietnamese flags outside. This is more like it. It's locked - after chatting to a waiting cab driver (see - i learn from my mistakes!) I discover that it's closed between 12 and 2, and visa applications need to be made between 9 and 11.30am. Poo. Back up the road, past old man (who waves), and straight across the main road and into a shopping mall. Retail therapy.

After a few hours serious browsing I decide the day wasn't a complete write off - I managed to buy a cheap (well, cheapish) digital camera so that I can now take my own photos rather than stealing them from friends/other internet sights. I also bought some v. cheap trews to repace my aladdin pants (they look plane stoopid here) and resisted buying many things including a pair of crocs (latest shoe craze - and so dang comfy) and an excessively pricey cappuccino from starbucks.


I'm going to set my alarm for 8am tomorrow to make sure I get this ruddy visa sorted. Then I will visit Orchard Rd - otherwise known as shoppers paradise. Most notable shopping mall that has a ridiculous number of floors packed full of shops, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Ngaire - you would totally love this place. There is at least 32 other big malls in this area. I'm going to have to leave the credit card in the locker methinks.

Day 88 - Singapore

Well, here I am in Singapore. Clean streets, clean buses and friendly people. I arrived in the airport at 6am and caught a bus to the hostel, where I am still hanging around now. The beds are dorm style - but with hot water, free internet and free coffee it feels like luxury.

I have several chores to do today; boring things like find the Vietnam embassy, do washing (in a proper laundrette, hopefully, just need to find one) and buy a digital camera. I had planned to do a bit more exploring, but the short flight last night meant I got about 2 hours sleep - so I feel a bit knackered. On tuesday I'm doing a student life tour, and then on thurday a food tour (food - my favourite thing).

Goodness - my brain is mush - I'm going to stop whittering now and go back to bed.

Day 87 - Chennai

Last day in India (not that I'm counting down or anything). Chennai is a bit of a grubby, grasping city, but despite that I've enjoyed myself here. This is mainly because of the SA Hostel - the management are great and beds are dorm style, so it's a good opportunity to meet new & interesting people. Yesterday evening I got chatting to the other people in my dorm - a French couple and a Japanese girl. The French couple had been travelling for 6 months. Now, I thought I was being adventurous, but my travels are nothing compared to theirs. They had hitchhiked from France to Slovakia, and if that wasn't enough they then bought bicycles and cycled all the way through Hungry, Romania, Bulgaria and into Turkey. They stopped in Turkey (because it was freezing cold) and got a flight to India. I listened to their story in amazement, with more than a little jealousy - maybe if I can find a willing cycle buddy, a cycle across Europe could be my next trip. The Japanese girl was nice too - we compared henna designs and ashram info, and then she told me the trip she'd done (also v. adventurous). She caught a ferry from Japan to China, then travelled across China, through Tibet and Nepal and into India - all by herself! Next she plans to travel around India, then through Pakistan and Kashmir (if these places aren't scary enough - she plans to do it in midwinter - bonkers) then back across China and home. So many good ideas for future trips...

Anyway, I got up early this morning because I had to check out of my hostel at 9am (horrors). I had a shouting match with a rickshaw driver, who dropped me off at the museum area, where I waded around the flooded streets in the pissing rain, looking for something to do. It seemed everywhere was closed, partly because it was raining, but partly because they just don't bother opening things before 10 here. I finally shlopped into a 5* hotel - the only thing in a 1-mile radius I could find that was open - and had a mini splurge on an all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast. I ate faar to much, and strung it out for as long as possible, then went to the shopping centre to wait for somewhere to open. I waited half an hour before giving up, and I had a pleasant chat with an old guy who advised me to go to Mount Rd for shopping, and argued with the rickshaw driver for me so I wasn't ripped off. Mount Rd (or Anna Salai Rd - why does everything need 2 names?) is the main shopping street with lots of government emporiums selling statues, furniture and other kitschy export stuff. I almost danced with joy in the street when I found a Phillips shop; my earphones for my MP3 have not been working properly for about a month - and could I find somewhere that sells them in any of the places I visited so far? Not on your nelly. I almost kissed the grizzled shop manager when he handed me a shiny new pair.

So, now I am in a cheap-as-chips Internet cafe in some random back alley (got bored of the naff emporiums), killing time until Giggles bookshop opens... "the manager, he will come at 11.30, and then he will sweep and clean - you come at 12". Raaah - IT'S A SATURDAY!

Day 86 - Chennai

Back in Chennai - the last stop in India. I got here about 11 after a relatively easy bus ride (it rained, but I managed to haul the metal window shutter down so I didn't get too wet). Then I had the problem of getting from Chennai bus station to Edgmore, where I planned to stay, without being ripped off. The rickshaw drivers were asking ridiculous prices, so I steeled myself for a long barganing session involving shouting/waving arms/walking off angrily - but then a bus went by me with the glorious word EDGMORE written on the front. I waved, ran and jumped on (with some difficulty - it wasn't going to stop for me), then grinned as we sailed by the group of disappointed rickshaw drivers - haha.

From Edgmore station it was a short (smelly) walk to Ritherton Rd, and the Salvation Army Hostel. The hostel has seen better days, but the bloke on reception was helpful and friendly, and the beds are the cheapest in town. Reception bloke chatted away about check out times and curfew etc, then:

Reception guy(smiling): How long have you lived in India madam?
Me (confused): I've just been travelling, nearly 3 months, why?
Reception guy: Because when I am talking you are wobbling your head, like we do
Me (wobbling head): hahaha, I didn't notice (bugger - I've been here too long)

The dorm room was dark and dingy, so I chained my bag to the bed (another one-inch-wonder mattress - greeaat) and left to get some brunch. On the way to the area near the station with all the restaurants, I nipped in to one of the great corner shops/pharmacies they have here in India - I spotted the hugest bottle of boost ever, and was so tempted - but there was no way I could squeeze it into my bag, so I settled for a normal size. I also got some chocolate (cadbury's, and chilled too - yum) and some antihistamine tablets (why did I not think of this before - they are so cheap, I love the way you can just buy medicines in poky shops in India for next to nothing, when in the UK you need to get a prescription, and pay through the nose - so funny).

I ate in Ceylon Non-Veg restaurant - I thought non-veg would have veg stuff as well as meat - but no, non veg means just that, no veg. Luckily Indians class eggs as veg so, although I was highly tempted by 'Brain Masala', I went for egg biryani - and very nice it was too.

I'm now in a tiny A/C internet cafe (A/C = glacial) and after some quality internetting I will walk the few km to the Government museum and national art gallery. Then, after the touristy stuff is out the way, I'll grab a pastry& boost from coffee day, then head along the best bookshop in Chennai to replace the latest tome I've finished reading.

Oh, and it's still raining, a lot.

Day 85 - Mamallapuram

Last day, I'm ashamed to say that I have been woefully bad at the sightseeing here, instead I've spent most of my time sleeping, eating and reading. I need the break - after 3 months of travelling round this huge country my body just has had enough! Today I'm going to maybe go have a look at the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas. Other than that more of the same relaxing methinks.


The tedious chore for the day is buying a new travelling bag - my current "say no to plastic" job was given to me by the Intrepid Travel guys, and after 3 months on the road is looking a little, well, disgusting. However, the shop assistants in Mamallapuram are so sickeningly obsequious that I really can't work up the will to go shopping (not to mention the fact I've got 1000R left and I'm trying to make it last for the next few days). Still, I like to think of this as the last time I'll have to haggle (yaaay).

Day 83 - Mamallapuram

Well, I'm now somewhere halfway between Pondy and Chennai. It's called Mamallapuram has a beach, lots of restaurants serving fresh fish, internet cafes and a great bookshop. Plus 3 nights accomodation costs the same as one night in the heritage hotel in Pondy. Can't be bad.

I've been here a few hours now, pottering aong and getting a feel for the place. I must admit that I feel like I'm just killing time now before flying on to my next location - Singapore - on Saturday. There are some nice shops here, but they are just selling the same stuff as the ones in Hampi, Varkala and one hundred other touristy places sell and the constant hard sell is becoming tiring. I also think I've reached saturation point for ruins and temples. This is a shame because Mamallapuram is meant to have some beautiful stone carvings and ruins that are meant to be well worth a look. Maybe I'll get an early night - lots of sleep will make me feel a bit more raring-to-go I'm sure (and there's always boost...)

Day 82 - Pondicherry

Day 82 - wow, can't believe I've been away from the UK so long! Craziness.

After writing the entry yesterday I popped back to the hotel and hired a battered one-gear-wonder in order to explore a bit more. Pondy is quite small, and laid out a bit like Milton Keynes - i.e. in blocks. Cycling is the best way to get around, but a bit of an extreme sport as nobody really bothers driving in the right place, and instead all go on their merry way, expecting everyone to get out of it. Must admit I don't have so much bravado, so in general have been getting around slowly, though more safely.

Apart from exploring, internetting, drinking excessive amounts of boost* and eating lots of pizza (mmmm, pizza), I've been sitting in cafes, working my way through the contents of the hotel's bookshelf. Unfortunately, as a large proportion of the tourists (not travellers, but people here on holiday) are French, the majority of the books are also French, so I've had to supplement my reading matter with early entires from my travel journal, which actually is very amusing. In retrospect I realise I spent most of my first month in India being ripped off by everyone, and wondering around permenantly red and sweaty - funny.

I think I will leave Pondy tomorrow morning and get the bus to Mamallapuram, a travellers hangout with a beach and cheap accommodation. This time I'm going to ring in advance to make sure I get a room!

* For the uninformed: UK has Ovaltine, Australia has Milo and India has boost. It's basically a malted drink that's got added vitamines and minerals. I started drinking it for the v&m's but am now addicted to it's malted goodness. I think I've probably become known as "the boost girl" in the restaurants and bakeries I frequent, as all the waiters find it utterly hilarious when I order a hot milk and mix up my boost of the day, and all feel the urge to point and say "boost" loudly. I entirely blame Becca for this addiction as she was the one to introduce me to it in the first place :-)

Day 81 - Pondicherry

Made it! It only took a 1 hr bus, a 10 hr train, a 6 hour train and then a 4 hr bus - no problem. The final bus ride was possibly the most painful part, being that I was the only a)westerner and b)woman, I just cranked up the volume on my MP3 player and stared out the window, pretending that the entire bus wasn't staring at me.
We arrived about 8.20 in darkness. I hadn't booked anywhere to stay, so I pulled out the faithful Lonely Paranoid and set up shop in a phone booth. I called all the guest houses in the book, one by one and starting with the cheapest, only to be told, again and again, that they were full. Uh oh. Finally I came across one with a room, the Ram guest house. I was so relieved that I just collapsed in a rickshaw, not bothering to haggle over the fare, and told the driver to step on it ("step on what?" - sigh). The hotel is a heritage hotel; small and charming with old wooden furniture and a balcony. My room is on the compact side, and a mite expensive, but is clean and has a TV and hot water - bliss.

Had somewhat of a shock when I looked in the mirror - after 26hrs of travelling, and broken sleep, I looked like a zombie (see right for an artists impression... and I wondered why everyone was running away, screaming :-). Hot shower and early night needed desperately.

This morning I got up at 7 and went on an epic tour of the hostels of Pondicherry, by foot. They are all full - raaah. Looks like I'll have to stay with the hot water and TV, what a shame! Pondicherry really is a very nice town; wide, tree-lined boulevards and a long promonade along the Bay of Bengal. There are pockets of french culture and architecture here and there, and the town has plenty of coffee shops (that serve real espresso) and nice French/Italian cuisine restaurants. The best way to get around, epecially to the nearby beaches, is by cycle or motorbike - so my mission this evening is to find a cycle hire shop (not going to risk a scooter - eek). I was hoping to go to Auroville and visit the Matrimandir meditation room with its huge 70cm crystal, but unfortunately it is only open to visitors on Sunday, and tickets have to be booked in advance - poo. Guess I'll just have to cycle to a beach instead.

Below: The Matrimandir dome and meditation room (space age..)



Below: A Pondicherry street and the promenade

Day 78 - Hampi

Last day (ish) - I leave tomorrow at about 4 to catch an overnight train to bangalore, then another train to Chennai, then a bus to Pondicherry. I've stocked up on cold pizza (leftover from dinner), cinnamon danish and cookies - so the journey should be less painful. Well, lets face it, it couldn't be any worse than the overnight bus, for all that it's twice as long!

So goodbye to boulders, and all the kids that shout "Pen? Biscuit? Chocolate? Rupee?" and the mosquitos and to travel buddy Becca (sob - this is actually sad) and hello to the sea, french-italian cuisine and wine (yay) and blissed out yoga. Heaven.