Here we are in Alleppey, base for boat trips across the Keralan backwaters (right). The train journey wasn't all that bad after all. We got to the station about 11pm and spent a couple of hours waiting for the train (suprise suprise - it was running late). The station was empty but for a few Indian guys, and a young english couple travelling to Cochin. Luckily the little station shop was open, so we sat sipping chai and watching cricket with the station master.The train came about 2 (by which point we were a bit jittery due to excessive amount of chai) and we practically had to run up to our carridge and leap aboard as the train barely stopped moving. The carridge was quite clean, and although it felt like we were on a prison train (bars), we could open the windows for fresh air. The train was full of families and a bunch of schoolgirls, a few guys too, but it felt like we were less of an exhibit than on previous journeys. We both slept well, and woke late the next day. Across from our birth there was another travelling couple, a family with a cute kid and a straaange man who insisted on chain smoking throughout the trip and kept whistling and clicking his tongue when he wanted to get someone's attention. The aisle was a steady stram of vendors, beggers, sweepers and performers ("CHAICHAICHAI", "cOOOOOOFFEEE", "CUTLEEETSS" - by the end we started fantasising about throwing chai seller, who went yelling past every five minutes without fail, out of the window with his darn tub of chai). At one point crazy man bought 2 bottles of foul smelling perfume from the perfume seller and proceeded to spray himself, his bag and everything in sight - from whence the fans spread the hideous smell carridge-wide - and I thought the cigarettes were bad! Luckily our window was a fire escape, so I was able to pull the bars up and hang out, gasping for air.
We got into Alleppey in total darkness at about 7pm. It must be quiet season at the moment, before even leaving the train we had several offers of rooms. At the station we were immediately offered a bargainous rickshaw ride into town - it did mean that the rickshaw driver tried to pursuade us to go to several hotels on the way (from which he would probably receive commission) but we stuck to our original plan - the Koralam Hotel (felt a bit guilty that the driver missed out on his commission, so left a nice tip - everyone is happy). The room was cheap, but spacious and with a shower that actually works, reliable power and (shock horror) a full length mirror. After a month of just seeing my face I wince at my bad tan lines, and grin cbecause it looks like I've lost a few pounds and am generally a bit brown (if somewhat freckly).
We went for a wonder, looking for a restaurant, and grinned at each other when it occurred to us that we were back in the real india - a sea of rickshaws, bicycles and inquisive Indian faces. No touristy cafes serving alternative cuisines, aried breakfasts and beer, no multitudes of Israeli pot-smoking travellers in skimpy clothing - it was kinda nice. We gave up on finding a restaurant so late, and headd back to the hotel restaurant. It vaguely resembled a canteen, and the fact that we received no cutlery. All I can say is it's a good job we practiced eating with our right hand. You try tearing chipatti only using one hand, or eating rice soaked with goo and getting it all in your mouth in a dignified, precise manner - its exceedingly tricky!
Good sleep, we left our room (dripping washing strung everywhere and fan on full blast) at about 11. Took us about an hour to find a cafe, then we had to resign ourselves to the fact that we would not be getting any muesli, fruit salad, or even toast. Chilli omlette, two cups of tea, water - grand total - 35p. We are now on a mission - book ferry to Kollam for tomorrow, explore, organise.
We want to stop off to visit one of Indias few female gurus, Amma, also called the 'hugging mother', whos darshan (blessing) consists of hugging thousands of people every day in mammoth hugging sessions. She apparently hugs for hours without sitting down, eating or going to the toilet. I fancy a hug (and apparently if you make a wish whilst she hugs you, it will come true - worth a try!!)So that is the plan for tomorrow - we have to make sure that she is in residence first (she tours for 8 months a year).
Update: Nooo! Amma isn't here! What a shame. She is now on a tour of Europe and the USA - can you guess where she is at present? London, that's where!
London, Great Britain
October 10 -12
Crystal Palace National Sports Centre, Ledrington Road, Crystal Palace. London SE19 2BB
* Info: Shanker Nair, Tel. int +44 207 603 6868 (6 pm to 9 pm),
eMail: shanker@amma.org.uk
http://www.amritapuri.org/yatra/europe.php
So, if you around, give her a hug for me!
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